Centre Malvasía, Sitges
I can smell the sea as I step off the train. Up above the sky is a deep blue. Brilliantly white seagulls swoop alarmingly close as they scan the ground for food. I immediately regret having worn my corduroys, everyone seems to be dressed in shorts, as though summer has arrived. I am hoping my Panama hat will offer me some protection from the sun that is already beating down relentlessly.
Much to my relief the Centre Malvasia is only just a ten-minute walk from the station. I set off at a leisurely pace. Marie will be meeting me later at the restaurant together with our friends Enric and Jordi. Although I enjoy her company, I must admit I prefer to go on these visits by myself. I find having to share one’s thoughts can sometimes be distracting to say the least. Marie and I have been together on and off for about three years now. A record. She is an independent woman with a mind of her own. Os pedrer, she can be irritating at times. Gives me a run for my money . “You should be more communicative,” she says. “ Show your feelings, Constantí , let the top off the bottle.” She might have a point.
Aha, there it is. Centre d’Interpretació Malvasía de Sitges, the CIM. I step into a little courtyard. In the centre a fig tree stands guard over a little vine. I sit down at one of the tables, under the tree out of the sun and wait for my guide, Sergi. Like Cinderella, he appears on the dot, as in the distance the church bells strike twelve o’clock midday.
“ Bon dia, “ he greets me with a cheerful smile.
He gathers the rest of the group around him, and our visit begins. Where we are standing was formerly a stable. A place for the cattle to rest overnight during their seasonal migration. At one time it was also the wine cellar belonging to the Hospital Sant Joan Baptista. Since 2019 it holds the CIM. There is a little shop where one can buy and taste the different wines and a hall where there is a permanent exhibition covering the history of Malvasia and the Hospital.
The Hospital Sant Joan Baptista de Sitges was founded in 1324 by a knight who went by the name of Bernat de Fonollar. It is to date, one of the oldest institutions of Catalunya. The hospital catered to the poor, to pilgrims, orphans and to those in need of medical attention. It also served to ‘cleanse one’s soul.’ I could do with a little of that.
The original building used to be situated within the medieval city walls. It was bought in 1912 by the American magnate Charles Deering and the money was used to move the hospital to where it still stands today, the impressive modernist building built by architect Josep Font I Gumà.
Sergi takes us down on a short walk and as we stand in front of this remarkable piece of architecture, one can imagine the doctors of yesteryear flicking the tails of their impeccable white coats as they moved busily from one patient to another. At present, the hospital caters to the elderly as well as managing the estate of Llopis and the CIM.
A little further to the left of the building , lush green vines stand proudly in a vineyard that is a mere 0.3 hectares. The grapes planted there are the towns famous Malvasia. The CIM also owns a vineyard of 1.7 hectares in the nearby Aiguadolç, these two are the only remaining precious vineyards within the village. Historically Sitges had a plethora of vineyards that stretched down to the sea. The combination of the deadly phyloxera insect as well as an expanding urbanisation did away with the rest of them.
Sergi tells us the story of the legacy of Manuel Llopis. An art collector, diplomat and lawyer, Manuel Llopis was aware that the Malvasia grape of Sitges was on the verge of extinction. He left part of his heritage to the Hospital de Sitges, including the Llopis wine cellar. In exchange his heirs were to receive twenty-four bottles of Malvasia wine every year, so ensuring its continuity. I would not mind a case of this wine in aeternum.
Back at the Centre de Malvasia, Alba the director of the CIM arrives on her bicycle. Like Sergi she is passionate about the Malvasia grape and wines. We visit the museum which is well documented; I leave before the visit is over as lunch and my friends await me, but before I do, I buy a few bottles of Blanc Subur 100% Malvasia. This is a wonderful, dry white wine, with notes of stone fruit, a balanced acidity, fresh and joyful. It has a hint of saltiness that reminds us of where we are. Perfect for a barbeque on my rooftop terrace. An Orada (gilt-headed bream)with a sweet roasted pepper sauce would be the perfect companion.
I also buy the sweet Malvasia. This wine has been aged in chestnut barrels for over six years. Before bottling they make a blend of three different vintages one of which is from a very old solera (in the criadera and solera system, this is the barrel nearest to the floor, which holds the oldest wine). Brightly amber coloured there are hints of orange peel, a little honey with a depth, creaminess and intensity that reminds me a little of a Palo cortado or an Amontillado. I can imagine this wine pairing with a creamy, fresh matò with roasted pine nuts and caramelized figs. My stomach rumbles. I say my goodbyes and set off to the restaurant.
Sitges Bon Estar
Sitges Bon Estar is situated in the center of the village. Everywhere people are out on the terraces enjoying the warm weather. Once inside the restaurant the atmosphere is quiet. Soft lighting placed over elegantly set tables and there, at one of them my dear friends Enric and Jordi. Just as we sit down, the door opens accompanied by a rush of noise from the street. Marie as usual is confoundingly late, even if only by 5 minutes. She has done something to her hair. I am not sure if I like it and am about to say so. Something in her eyes stops me in my tracks. Probably for the better. Those deep green eyes, they catch the overhead light and stare straight at me. For a moment I have difficulty swallowing, but I do eventually, covering up the noise with a cough. “Seiem?” Shall we sit? I ask, straightening the tie I am not wearing.
Enric and Jordi suggest we order a black rice as a main course. Wonderful. One of the secrets to this dish is the fumet, the fish broth used to make the rice. It should be tasty, intense made with rockfish, leeks, onions, and carrots, perhaps a handful of galeres (a tasty crustacean typical from the Delta de l’Ebre) and then left simmering on the stove for a few hours. The ‘sofregit’ typically made with onions, tomato, and peppers, must be allowed to cook slowly until the vegetables release their natural sugars. There is also a picada of parsley and garlic made in the mortar ground to a paste which is added to the rice together with the squid ink. Squid (or cuttlefish), prawns, mussels, clams and some cigalas (dublin bay prawns) and the rice which must be short grained.
Marie chooses a few appetizers. We have a tuna tartare with just the right amount of spiciness and a creamy avocado mousse drizzled with a local olive oil. We also have deep fried crunchy artichokes served with a smokey romescu sauce. To pair with the lunch, we order a bottle of Tardatio, Malvasia, Celler Jordi Raventós. It is fresh and crisp, there is a little spiciness that comes out at different moments, this matches perfectly with the meal at hand. Surprisingly, the bottle lasts throughout the meal, pairing well with the luscious black rice served with a soft white allioli and all the succulent shellfish hidden among the grains of rice. We have no space for dessert. After coffee we head out towards the hills. Marie drove my old Ford out to Sitges to meet us, so we pile into it to then drive along the country lanes to our next destination. The wine cellar Vega de Ribes.
Vega de Ribes
The name is a combination of the nearby village of Sant Pere de Ribes and the Star Vega. Perched atop a hill with views of the sea in the distance, one almost feels one could reach for the stars. Vega de Ribes is a family run business dating back to the 16th century. They have thirty hectares of vineyards, all dedicated to organic, sustainable wine practices. Here the revered Malvasia grape is a key variety as well as Xarel.lo, Macabeu and Garnatxa. Enric Bartra the owner takes us on a walk through the vineyards. He tells us about the diverse flora and fauna, the location and unique terroir. Inside the cellar we are surrounded by the past. Enric proudly highlights a weathered key with the date 1744 hammered onto the metal. He is knowledgeable about his family history and like many other wine cellar owners, he is comitted to preserving their heritage for generations to come.
Vega de Ribes has a diverse selection of wines. Whites, Reds, Rosés and Sparkling ‘ancestrals.’ These sparkling wines differ from the methode tradtionelle of the Cavas or Champagnes. The methode ancestral is a traditional method where the wine is bottled before it has completed its fermentation resulting in the production of carbon dioxide which creates natural bubbles or effervescence.
Enric brings out a treasure for us to try. Saserra 2014. This is a white wine made with the Malvasia grape variety. Its captivating colour hints at the richness within the glass. A mesmerising old gold hue that twinkles in the afternoon sun. On the nose it is intense. There are notes of honey, orange, quince, and I pick up some aromas of the flowers and bushes we previously saw surrounding the vineyards. I take a sip. I feel like I am drinking sunlight. There seems to be a slight sweetness to the wine balanced with a perfect acidity. It is silky, intense, and quite long, a symbol of impeccable craftmanship and dedication.
We load up the car with a selection of bottles and wave our goodbyes to our host, promising to return soon. Enric and Jordi have fallen asleep in the back of the car. I would like to follow suit but perhaps it is wiser to keep Marie entertained with what I can only hope is interesting conversation. She seems to be enjoying my company. When she smiles, a little dimple appears just above her right cheek. I hold back the urge to lean over and kiss it and instead I gently stroke her hand.
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